Each of the 400 nine-and-a-half-ounce rounds that he produces every day is stamped with the seal of “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée” or “AOC” — a coveted certification that authenticates the content, method and origin of production of a French agricultural item.
But Camembert purists like Mr. Durand are infuriated these days because two of France’s largest dairy producers want to change the rules.
Citing health concerns, the two companies, Lactalis and the Isigny Sainte-Mère cooperative, which together made 90 percent of the traditional raw milk Camembert in Normandy, began earlier this year to treat the milk used for most of those cheeses.
In doing so, they were forced to sacrifice their A.O.C. status, the first time in French history that Camembert producers voluntarily did so.
But they also have asked the French governmental food board to grant that status to their new Camemberts, arguing that the processing they use — either filtering or gently heating the milk — does not sacrifice the traditional taste and character of the cheese.